The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy, by Charles Curtis
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The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy, by Charles Curtis
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The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy is a translation from works describing and classifying the vineyards of the Côte d’Or written prior to the establishment of today’s system of Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée in 1936 and a discussion of how they compare to the modern system. For centuries, a number of authors ranging from learned amateurs to experienced professionals weighed in with their thoughts. Translations from the most notable of these works form the backbone of the present work Claude Arnoux : Dissertation sur la situation de la Bourgogne, sur les vins qu’elle produit (1728) Claude Courtépée et Edme Béguillet : Description historique et topographique du Duché de Bourgogne (1778) André Jullien : Topographie de Tous les Vignobles Connus (1816) Dr. Denis Morelot : Statistique de la Vigne dans le Département de la Côte d’Or (1831) Dr. Jules Lavalle : Histoire et Statistique et des Grands Vins de la Côte d’Or (1855) René Danguy et Charles Aubertin : Les Grands Vins de Bourgogne (1892) Camille Rodier : Le Vin de Bourgogne (1920) More than a dusty history lesson, The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy provides a roadmap for the discovery of forgotten gems, hidden in plain sight. Crucial reading for all who love Burgundy.
The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy, by Charles Curtis- Amazon Sales Rank: #439203 in eBooks
- Published on: 2015-03-05
- Released on: 2015-03-05
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review "This is a major addition to the Wine Library...Warm-hearted congratulations to Charles Curtis. A splendid book!" - Clive Coates clive-coates.com"It is a treatise like no other. We now have a comprehensive text to refer to that helps define the great terroir of Burgundy. Bravo to you and more than that, Thank you." - Daniel Johnnes"...Curtis has translated classic Burgundian texts and highlighted insights into what writers from previous centuries saw in one of the world's great wine regions...This is an interesting approach that will entertain those with a real interest in Burgundy." - Paul O'Doherty, JancisRobinson.com
About the Author Author, journalist and fine wine consultant Charles Curtis is a Master of Wine and the former head of Christie’s wine departments in New York and in Asia.
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful. Read While Drinking Burgundy By Timothy E Hall Burgundy’s modern classification began in the anti-fraud protectionist movement of the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system of the 1920s and 30s. Bordeaux’s five tier system for the top left bank properties had been codified in 1855 of course, but the rest of Bordeaux followed only later in a regional and disjointed way. Burgundy, whose wines date back 1500 years, had already a ‘custom and practice’ hierarchy of vineyard reputations, with often a well-discussed pecking order, long before the work of the INAO codified the region in 1936, alongside Bordeaux, the Rhône and Champagne.In Burgundy, the church developed the vineyards for centuries. It was the relative quality of wines from plots of land that drove the pecking order and the fragmentation of vineyard ownership after the French Revolution sealed that tradition. In Bordeaux, the Médoc was barely developed for wine until the Dutch engineers drained it in the mid 17th century. There was no plot by plot ‘terroir’. The new mercantalist class grew by building estates and their power increased after the Revolution of 1789. So in Bordeaux, chateaux were classified, not plots of land.Charles Curtis MW is a former head of Christie’s wine departments in both New York and Asia, now running WineAlpha.com, a global fine wine consultancy. His ‘The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy’, is a vinous labour of love, and gold dust for Burgundy lovers. It is painstaking historical scholarship and will help the shrewd buyer of burgundy today. It is required reading if you are a serious burgundy enthusiast and should take its place too in the canon of the literature of wine classification. Curtis has translated for the first time, sections of the key French works of reliable analysis, description and classification which came before the INAO and which, it is clear, the INAO largely rubber stamped.The sources are: Claude Arnoux (1728), Courtépée and Béguillet (1774-1781), André Jullien, already translated, (1815), Dr Denis Morelot (1831) and the most influential, Dr Jules Lavalle (1855). All of their works foreshadowed the modern tripartite division of grands and premiers crus and communal lieu-dits, although the older nomenclature uses ‘Tête de Cuvée’ for Grand Cru and then Première Cuvée, Deuxième Cuvée etc, for divisions below. This was a world where viti and viniculture were very different, where Burgundy’s planted area was over three times what it is now, but the yield vastly less and where Gamay was hugely more planted in with Pinot Noir.The biggest modern fall from reputational grace is the huge 50ha Clos de Vougeot, but it is easy to see why. It was a monopole until 1889 with all this means for selection and blending but now has 80+ owners. It is not uniformly grand cru potential but has kept its official status.This book also reminds us why Nuits has no modern day grands crus, when the above authorities all graded Les Saint-Georges just so. In fact the owners did not apply for ‘grand cru’ in 1935 as they thought they would be taxed more. In the opposite direction, the old authorities have been ignored by modern expansion which has inflated Corton to over 160ha in the 20th century, from some 20-30-odd before. There are always exceptions in Burgundy. Volnay of course was never given any grands crus, perhaps unfairly and controversially, with some of the above writers reticent on its claims, others more forthcoming. Curtis has a little more genuine enthusiasm about Volnay but would clip its wings too: “Wine lovers might be well-served by elevating Champans and Caillerets, while being a little more selective with the premiers crus vineyards in other instances.” But in general, while recommending the odd modern producer, Curtis is modest with his own opinion, preferring showing to telling.This wonderful cameo book is a reminder of what being a wine lover means: you need to travel, you need to see the vines. You need to taste, perhaps the least neglected part! But you also need to study, research and think. In some cases, translate. Curtis has done all that and it will make you want to do more.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful. This book is a wine nerds dream! It's certainly ... By Bob from Michigan This book is a wine nerds dream! It's certainly not for the casual wino because it contains a ton of detailed historical information. But it is a must read for any true Burgundy lover. The historical texts that are included in this book are extremely extremely interesting and they truly allow you to trace how people thought of the character of the different vineyards over the course of time.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful. Timely and Timeless By Dennis Sherman The Appellation Contrôlée system was instituted in Burgundy in 1936 to regulate the complex hierarchy of the vineyards there. However, for two centuries prior to this, a number of authors ranging from learned amateurs to experienced professionals produced, debated and refined their own systems of classification. Master of Wine Charles Curtis, in his new book The Original Grands Crus of Burgundy, translates from a number of these works and looks at how their classifications relate to the system we see in place today. For lovers of Burgundy, the wine and the region, it is a passionate read. As we await UNESCO's decision on Burgundy's World Heritage candidature, this book is both timely and timeless.
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